Category Archives: Design

Garden Trellis, part 1 of 2

A place for tillandsias, and other plants

Even in the best of gardens, with the most talented gardeners, sometimes a plant just doesn’t flourish.  We had a beautiful tree form tupidanthus that had been declining for a few years. It gave us valued privacy, so Lisa put tillandsias in its bare branches to create a green screen for us.

The branches finally started to sag, so we decided to build a trellis for the tillandsias. Our first thought was a trellis in the shape of the tree it was replacing. It took the form of a triangular base with projecting branches. I made a rough chopstick and popsicle stick model so we could study it. I even had fun making a movie of a 3D model of the “tree” trellis.

https://youtu.be/LoQjwErRkY0

After spending some time with the tree trellis design, we decided that it just made the horizontals too low. I had been resisting doing a standard rectangular trellis design, but I finally had to accept that it really was the best approach. It gave us higher horizontals, fit the space we have and the length of lumber that I can easily carry in my car. I made a second rough model of it, but no movie.

There are lots of roots right below the surface in this area, so I decided to use pre-cast concrete footings that sit on top of the ground (see the drawings at the bottom). They don’t require any digging, and I like the way they resemble big cartoon feet.

If you look closely at the second rectangular design (model and drawing), you will notice that the diagonal brace detail with a middle connecting piece and overlapping ends comes from my redesigned bench.

I came up with this detail to allow our cat to walk under the bench, but it also solves a detail problem I have struggled with. I like to use overlapping connections rather than connections where pieces butt into each other. They are easier to build and stronger than butted connections. I also like to form triangles, which are strong and stiff. However, when you overlap three pieces of flat wood to form a triangle, such as the horizontal beam, the vertical post and the diagonal brace, they don’t lay flat. This creates an awkward and weak connection. The connecting piece from the redesigned bench solves this problem – everything lays flat. Hard to explain, but try it with some popsicle sticks and you’ll see what I mean.

Next article   Finished Trellis

Schindler Frame – examples, part 3 of 3

Schindler Frame applied

 

Once the system was designed, Schindler played with it.

I have selected 3 Schindler Frame houses as examples, to show how the idea was actually built. I look at them in a cross-section through the living room, the area where Schindler creates the most complex spaces.

Daugherty House, 1945-1946

This is the Schindler Frame house that most closely matches the prototype (figs 1). Here, all the roofs are flat (fig 3), where in other Schindler Frame houses he combined flat with sloping roofs. The large living room (fig 2), 16’ x 20’, has a tall +-10’ ceiling/roof (the construction drawings do not have height dimensions). This house illustrates how the Schindler Frame would be applied to rooms where the tongue and groove roof spans more than its 10’ maximum. Beams are used to break up longer spans.

Schindler Frame – analysis, part 2 of 3

Analyzing the Schindler Frame

Throughout his career, one of Schindler’s main interests was shaping interior space. He did this not just in plan (the size and arrangement of rooms), but most importantly in the vertical dimension. His spaces have different heights, sloped and flat ceilings, and lots of glass that opens to views and light. Frustrated with the cost and limits of standard construction, the construction system he used on his earlier Plaster Skin designs, he developed the Schindler Frame to allow him the greatest flexibility in shaping spaces. 1

“…giving the space architect complete freedom to shape rooms.” 2

An Example